Be ne samba

The success of my social life can be measured by the length of my journal entries. During stage, I wrote daily. Now, I struggle to catch up at least once a week, resulting in chapter-length entries. Inversely, my busy schedule (and limited electricity) leaves little time for blogging. Forgive me, please.

Last weekend was my first Cameroonian veillée. That is to say, a wake. But this is no sombre experience like in the U.S, filing into a funeral home to see the body and hug the family. The atmosphere is much more like a Relay for Life: it's an all-night event for the whole community, complete with bonfires and traditional dances. I can't say it's joyous, because, well, it's a wake, but it's far from depressing. Family members of the deceased (unfortunately a young girl of just 16 who poisoned herself) mourned by masking their faces and walking about barefoot. I stayed for a short 3 hours, among dozens of extended family members huddled in blankets and dancing with the traditional dancers to the sounds of drums and whistles. The church choir belted out redemption songs, and people came and went.

People do that. They come and go. In fact, everywhere you go in Cameroon, you'll here the phrase "We are together." Ironically, these are actually parting words. But already I understand - it's a way of telling someone, "Even though I'm leaving, I'll be around." And they always are. In village I receive random visitors as early as 6am some days... or 3 or 4am on special occasions. These special occasions, more specifically, are the days of termite infestations.

Yes, that's right. Termites. Everywhere. Last Sunday I woke up at 4am to find hundreds of the flying creatures in my living room. I knew I was a true Peace Corps volunteer when my first reaction was, "Great. I know what's for dinner tonight!"

You think I'm kidding, but I'm not. At the time I went back to sleep but just a few hours later recruited my neighbors to help me sweep them all up. There were enough to fill a 5-gallon bucket more than half full, enough to feed the family. Seriously delicious. We ate it in a tomato sauce with some boiled manioc... definitely my prefered way to eat it, though roasted termites aren't bad either! Besides, I need a break from bushmeat, couscous, and spaghetti omelets from time to time.

Much more to say, but for now I'll leave you with one of the few Bamvele phrases I've finally picked up:
BE NE SAMBA. ("We are together." The most typical parting words in Cameroon.)